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Building a Mauser
Match Rifle - Page 3
Well, the barrel finally arrived! As I had ordered it chambered 20 thousandths deep, the only work required was to mount the barrel in the lathe and trim the two torque shoulders to match the receiver. No chamber reamer is needed! (And if your willing to use a selection of new, unfired, cases as "GO" gauges, some more money can be saved)
After satisfying myself that the barrel chamber was concentric with the outside, I mounted the barrel in a collet, in the lathe. I trimmed the end of the barrel (the inner torque shoulder) until the "GO" gauge protruded 1 thousandths less than the receiver measurements, then I trimmed the barrel at the second shoulder (where it get "fat" ahead of the threads) so that the distance between the shoulders exactly matched the receiver dimensions. For more instructions on this see THIS. The barrel was fitted to the receiver and the chamber was tested with a "GO" gauge and found to be OK.
Now that the barrel is installed the stock work begins. Let me say that I come from a family of talented woodworkers and have escaped receiving any of the woodworker genes J , in my opinion, the wood is just a place to put Acra-Glas. I got a reject stock, I think from Richards MicroFit, 2 for $70, and hogged out the barrel channel with a chain saw, and inletted the action with a Swiss Army knife.
After inletting, I first installed a steel pillar in the rear screw hole for the action. For details on this procedure check this out. I used Acra-Glas to secure the pillar.
I bedded the recoil lug, receiver bottom and first 2 inches of barrel with Steel-Bed. Notice the tape around the front, sides and bottom of the recoil lug and the heavy coat of release agent on the floorplate. For details look here.
Now do this a your own risk, for if your "friends" find out they will make fun of your work! The hogged out barrel channel allows a LOT of free float for the barrel, so much that it looks bad to even me. So, on the bottom and sides of the barrel I laid strips of masking tape, about four layers, then I wrapped the barrel with wide electricians tape, coated it with release agent, installed it in the stock, and filled the gap between the, now fat barrel and the stock with Acra-Glas. A clay dam is laid at the very end of the barrel channel, and the stock is mounted so the side of the barrel channel is level, The Glas was poured in and worked around to "wet' the channel, the barreled action was installed, and the Glas was poured in until the stock was plumb full! I have in the past dropped one or two pieces of steel drill or welding rod into the channel as reinforcing, but did not do that this time.